Category Archives: Culture

Presence and Persistence

It does not come easy for most Americans. It does not come easy for those of us raised on a diet of “right now,” of hopes and promises of overnight riches, of guaranteed transformation in 10 days.

With eyes focused on the instant, it feels like a water torture of failure to endure the process of change that requires seasons to unfold. For those of us who have imbibed an endless stream of gleaming white toothed corporate casual models leaping at the prospect of success from the pages of airline magazine, the slow grind of actual life seems like a broken promise. And yet, this is where our dreams actually unfold. This is where we do the work that transfers our vision into being.

The Taiwanese burn ghost money in a prayer of hope and wish for celestial intervention.

In the West, we too burn our ghost money to the gods from which we seek favor. They go by different names, and we don't incinerate piles of flower folded spirit currency. Yet, we too have our ways of trying to strike a deal with the Universe, of currying favor that might rain down from heaven the gifts we seek.

A curious habit that one is, the seeking of divine intervention. Because oddly enough it is our own deciding to intervene in our lives that tends to bring the most change. And it is not about some hopeful future or wish-it-were-different past, but from a deep and content sense of inhabiting the present.

 

Taiwanese Rules of Traffic

It's crowded in Taiwan. Crowded in a way that most Americans would not want to think too long about. Crowded and with rules of human brownian motion seeped from a culture that avoids conflict and direct confrontation.

So it can be confusing.

Confusing when we try to apply the Western habit of meeting and how to avoid colliding with others. In the West we consider crossing in front to be polite and appropriate, in Taiwan it's the opposite. Usually not noticed it at first except for a funny stutter step of the feet as you try to avoid bumping into others. It takes a soft shift in intention and focus to find the openings while navigating a crowd, or the tangle of vehicles and people at an intersection. And when you do make the shift and find the openings, they tend to appear behind people, not in front. It's a small shift, but one that makes all the difference.

To a Westerner the roads in Taiwan appear to be without rule or reason. That's not the case at all. It's a sensible flow, once you grasp the rules. There are three of them.

 

Rule one:

If there is a space, it may be filled. It's not personal. I can fill it, you can fill it, anyone can fill it. Unlike the bubble of personal space we have in West which is rigid and tends to range from one to four feet, here in Taiwan it's flexible and can compress to just past the surface of your clothes.

Rule two:

Whoever is in front has the right of way. That's simple, we have the same thing in the West.

Rule three:

Who's in front, is always and at every moment up for negotiation.

This does not mean it is chaotic, but rather that a different set of expectations are in effect. It involves more attention and a yielding water-like touch. Melt into the school of fish flow around you. And when looking for an opening, it's almost always in back of where you would otherwise think.

 

Breathing Taiwan

It's a complicated perfume of lurid tropical flowers and scooter exhaust, mixed with outdoor kitchens, acrid-sweet temple incense and wrapped all together into a humid embrace. The first thing I wanted to do after arriving in Tainan was to slip out into the night and breath the Taiwanese air from a street-side BBQ. There is something about the lighting here at night, it glows more yellow blue, it's softer on the eyes, like living in a gently sepia world. The gravity here is measurably different from that of the mainland.

It's an easy trip when your feet are headed in the direction of a place that feels like home. Even when the road bends into unfamiliarly there is still a beacon sense of the next steps to take. And so I arrive back to Tainan, where a conspiracy of diamond sparkle alleys wind into smoke patinaed temples, quiet coffee houses, riotous markets and the various commerce of connection and life.

An awful lot of life gets packed into what for a Westerner is an impossibly small space. Not a centimeter is wasted. Ducks awaiting roasting hang from rafters, breakfast is served street side, motorcycles litter the walkways like fallen Autumn leaves. Nothing you might want is far away. Be it a scooter repair, dispenser of filtered water, a cellphone sim card or something to eat. Most any need of daily life is within the radius of a 15 minute walk.

It is easy, very easy, to fall in the ambrosia pace of life in this ancient capital of Taiwan.

 

Chinese Medicine is Hard to Learn in China

In the rush and tumble obedience to laboratory science Chinese medicine in China has embraced the isolation of the petri dish, single molecular interactions and the reductionist lens of seeing the trees at the expense of the forest

Students in many of the Chinese medicine schools are taught that their medicine is not enough, that only when supplemented with pharmaceutical medication can be of service. They are taught Chinese medicine through the principles of Western science. They learn to prescribe herbs with an eye to laboratory interactions, and in doing so have lost the essence of traditional medicine and how to focus on the whole of a person.

In short, they are now taught to treat illnesses, but learn very little about treating people. Most now graduate with neither the skills or confidence to develop themselves into effective practitioners. They spout the ready slogan of 中西結合, the integration of Eastern and Western medicine, but sadly don’t truly embrace the former and are only partially skilled in the later. It makes it different in China to learn Chinese medicine, when the people who truly practice the art are increasingly fewer and far between

Dr. Huang, who organized this conference on classic herbal medicine, does not practice 中西結合. He does not follow the now popular route of “integration,” but instead seeks to cultivate the time tested methods that help a practitioner to cultivate their own clinical experience, so that they can more skillfully apply methods that are both safe and effective for the patient.

Here in the West we are just now beginning to talk about genetic differences and how that might play into crafting different kinds of treatments for different kinds of people. In China, they have been cultivating this perspective for well over 2000 years.

Of course, in the span of thousands of years there are some ideas and methods that fall by the wayside, they just don’t pan out. And there are others that over the centuries have proven their worth. That is what we gathered together to discuss and learn in Nanjing. How to be of service to our patients by taking the sparks of brilliance that have come down to us over the generations and have it kindle a fire in our own minds.

Jetlag

The synchronic adjustment between time zones is only one part of the shifting required when settling into a time zone that crosses oceans, languages and customs. Certainly, there is the internal clock of sleep and digestion that finds itself unhinged from the accustomed cycles of dark and light. But, additionally there are the habits of space and movement. How a street gets crossed. What distance is close enough, and the meaning implicate in the volume of one’s voice.

Jetlag involves more than the disruption of internal timekeeping. Toss in the smells and sounds, floral humidity or bone-dry pollution, traffic flows and assumptions about courtesy. It is more than time; there are elements in life of timing to which our internal sense of motion and flow must readjust. The different taste of seasons, how the wind feels, and the softness or acridity of the air all ask for a recalibration our internal compass to this new here and now.

It’s a short window into the differences between places. All too soon, that which is odd and off center will again spin as our new axis of normal.

Oh, so it is like this..

I bought a ticket from one of Taipei’s kabillion 7/11′s for the the high speed train that time slices the journey from Taipei to Tainan. For a 35 cent service charge the pre-ticket sales line at the train station can be avoided. Taiwanese 7/11′s truly live up the name “convenience store”, as there you can do anything from pay a parking ticket, to purchasing a one shot dose of the most commonly used Chinese herbal decoctions, to picking up a surprisingly fresh quick meal, to– buying a train ticket.

The clerk did not actually give me a ticket, but a handful of receipts, one of which had bar codes and time stamps. It was not till the next morning when I went to double check on the departure time that I noticed there wasn’t one. And the big letters at the top that said “not a ticket” lead me down the garden path of thinking that I’d be able to scan this bar coded receipt and grab my ticket at the station.

When listening to a foreign language where you don’t quite understand everything, the mind will attempt fill in the voids of unclarity with guesses gleaned from the context of the situation. This is not limited to the study of language. We all are constantly filling in the spaces of “don’t know” with “it must be like this.” The English word is “assumptions,” and they often land us hot water when the true reality of a situation revels itself.

I can read the characters at the train station 換票區. I thought it was referring to the electronic ticket receipt in my wallet. Wrong again! It is where you go to get a refund for a ticket you don’t want to use. I unfortunately do not have a ticket. I have a receipt for one. And this is a problem. I was supposed to have been given a ticket at the 7/11. I suspect the girl working there was too new to know that. And me? How would I know, it’s the first time for me too.

Being fresh from a week on the mainland I expected the worst. But, Taipei is not Beijing. I get an apology for the confusion, apology for that it is going to take some time to get this sorted out, and an apology that there are some details I will have to provide. It would appear this will be a recoverable mistake. And somehow that it unfolds in Chinese makes it easier to let go of the self-talk that usually accompanies the missteps of life in English. In our own language and staunch belief that we understand our world it is easy to acquire the habit of anger and frustration when the world reveals itself to be different from our cozy construct.

There is a phrase I hear lot here in Taiwan. It is a very Taiwanese way of speaking– 這樣子啊 zhe yang zi ah, “oh, so it is like this.” It is not a judgement, it assigns no blame. It is a simple recognition of the world as it is. Like a mini-enlightenment, “oh, so it is like this.”

It is not a bad habit to acquire– “oh, so it’s like this.” It leaves us open to recognizing the how our minds at times lead us down a dreamed up path, and when the lightning flash of reality illuminates our error we can let ourselves off the hook. Allow it to simply be. Be as it is. Zhe yang zi ah. And then keep moving forward with just a touch more clarity and calm.

Ten years ago


Ten years ago this would not have been possible. Ten years ago the world was a different place. Ten years ago you could not fly directly from Shanghai to Taiwan. In fact, you could not fly anywhere from mainland China directly to Taiwan. Ten years ago you needed to track through Hong Kong if your final destination was the international airport in Taoyuan that sits about an hour outside of Taipei. Ten years ago it was impossible to do what I am doing today.

But, then ten years ago it was also not possible for me to read Chinese, or negotiate an overcharge at a restaurant, or figure out how to slide through a traffic intersection of apparent chaos. Ten years ago Americans did not walk barefoot through airport scanners, or bank from a cell phone.

Rarely do most of us see the changes coming that in retrospect were obvious choices, or make complete sense from the perspective of today. It’s not to say that planning and thoughtful consideration are not of value, but that perhaps at times the habit of the moment prevents us from seeing that new possibilities are unfolding right in front of us.

What about you? What do you do now that was unthinkable ten years ago? What previously curious changes make complete sense from the perspective of today?
Leave a comment and share something of the mystery that unexpected transformation has brought to your life.

Learning language

I always enjoy the language lessons from cabbies. Quite often they are the lessons learnt from the stumbles of my less than “standard” mandarin. Other times from the miscommunication of thinking that one thing means another. Like when I first was learning my way about Beijing in 2002 using my Taiwanese flavored Chinese. I thought I was just making conversation among guys by talking about pretty girls. He thought I wanted a prostitute. Xiao jie, an affectionate term for women in general in Taiwan, translates differently on the continent. Those lessons wrought from confusion have a way of sticking with you.
Emotion, tends to burn experiences deeply into our being.

Today’s lesson was more gentle. Mr Liu has an agreement with the hotel. He takes guests out there off the meter for 100 RMB, it then sets him up with a nice fat metered fare back to the city. As usual I’m complimented on my rotten Mandarin and told “you speak a more proper Mandarin than I do.” In a way he is right, I have not acquired the buzz-saw “errrr” of Beijing’s unique accent. He graciously gives me a lesson in the application of the buzz-saw.

“You can’t add it to all words, and for certain words it will actually change the meaning.” For example, men (gateway) in the name of one of the intersections on the second ring road, An Ding Men, which used to be a major gateway into what was the wall that ringed Beijing before the second ring road. That men is pronounced “men”– no “errr.” But, the men that is the door of a house– that one you say “merrr.” Calling a big gate a merrr, it just disrespects.

As ever the intricacies of language at times make we wonder how we communicate at all. For now, I’ll stick with my Taiwanese southern “errr”-less drawl and leave the Beijing language to the gemerr (brothers) of the northern capitol.

Tea

Tea is not a quick affair. It takes time. Time to settle into a chair and visit the steaming water and leaves. It is a rare moment in our point-and-click UPS delivered life, to drop the to-do list and sink into a wandering conversation. The kind without an agenda, the kind that is like an ongoing invitation.

Us westerners often mistake the technology of tea making for a ceremony. And while it is just that in some parts of the world, in the middle kingdom it is a simple and practical way to extract the personality locked away in the leaves.

It takes time to drink tea. To entice the leaves to open and share their stories of early morning moonlit dew, insect songs, subterranean minerals scattered in the dirt and fecund decay, and long sun-baked afternoons. It takes time to compare this cup, with that one and how the fragrance of one tea rises into the nose, while another sinks down to the chest. It takes time, like getting to know a new friend, or your own true heart’s desire. It is not so much a process of judging, but one of comparison, and curiosity.

The process can’t be rushed, and like meditation it is an invitation to simply be present. Allow the moment to unfold, like the leaves surrendering to hot water. Like we do to our own experience when it is not rushed. When we allow to be, as is, in this moment.
And the next one too.

The Imperial Capitol

The anomaly of the cotton wet grey sky does not match the desiccated grit that dusts everything with its dull chalk patina. The lack of sun has nothing to do with saturated clouds of moisture, but from the hydrocarbon exhalation of a country that “makes things.” We in the west pride ourselves of having cleaned up the environment in our country, but the truth of matter is that the two faced genie of manufacture has simply been moved not just to another part town, but beyond our borders as well. Just as it did for us, manufacturing creates wealth and it would appear it continues to do so in its age old way– by chewing through the environment. China Inc’s factories spew out the same sky consuming waste that in the past used to turn London coal black, and made the steel belt rivers of America run technicolor.

In the US we see shuttered building projects and declining infrastructure, as most of America has put itself on hold when it comes to expansion. It is different here, where the breakneck pace of economic development, change and growth feels every bit as foreign as the differences that naturally come from a mismatch of cultural quirks. China changes fast, and its imperial capitol reflects it with an ever increasing spider web of modern subways, stretched Hummer’s (the brand is now owned by the Chinese) and a crazy quilt of foreign tongues as everyone from the rural peasant to the Western business man, to the African merchant all seek to bite off a bit of China’s economic land grab.

Prices are inflating in a dizzying spiral and it brings with it changes in outlook and attitude. Where there used to be hard bargaining, now is often heard “take it or leave it.” Flagging down a cab and getting them to stop still may or may not get you to your destination. I’ve heard the odd hours excuse of “I’m getting off work now”– that actually translates into I don’t want to go to that part of town. And while there still are men who light up their cigarettes under the “no smoking” signs in restaurants, they don’t seem to quite a plentiful as before. It just might be that there is a tidal shift in tobacco use.

To what are now my American mid-west tuned sensibilities, Beijing feels like an assault. But, I know that is the temporary byproduct of retuning my Chinese 360° sense of perception and the weary edge of jetlag. The “rules” of traffic as we know them are taken here simply as recommendations. And in reality have very little to do with how feet and wheels, motors and pedals, flow and restriction all play together to move people and vehicles through a seemingly impossibly narrow space. It will take a few more days to settle in the slow motion school of fish flow that governs how traffic moves in a world where the luxury of space is unknown.

In the section of town I temporarily call home there is graffiti everywhere. I can not remember seeing it on previous visits. But, it is also brighter at night with a new flush of shops and night markets that run on the fatter wallets of Beijing’s well lubed economy. The narrow hutongs with their low wattage corners of commerce, the fruit stands and daily goods shops have given way to guitar bars, trendy Thai restaurants, laid-back coffeehouses, hand crafted goods and stylishly cut clothes. The echos of “old Beijing”– the cigarette smoking old men surrounded with a mountain of spent sunflower seed hulls and an army of 3 kuai bottles of Yanjing beer as they play Chinese chess look like ghosts from another time, as the culture of commerce and “ke ai” (cuteness) overtake their old dusty alley with cupcakes, Tibetan scarves and tattoo parlors.

In the west our construction projects are well ordered affairs with OSHA enforced safety measures that wrap construction sites up like a helicopter parent’s prodigy learning to ride a bicycle. In Beijing they more resemble children who track mud all over the place, as the boundaries of creation and destruction merge one into the other, and the ever flowing stream of bicycles, cars and feet simply parts and flows water-like around any momentarily obstruction. Massive diesel spewing dump trucks offloading dirt from an excavation site share the sidewalk with the lively crowd out to enjoy one of the last few comfortable nights before winter drags the bitter cold winds down off the Mongolian Steppes.

It is very difficult to separate creation from destruction. Perhaps this is what it looks like when a dragon sheds its skin.

Category Archives: Culture

Presence and Persistence

It does not come easy for most Americans. It does not come easy for those of us raised on a diet of “right now,” of hopes and promises of overnight riches, of guaranteed transformation in 10 days.

With eyes focused on the instant, it feels like a water torture of failure to endure the process of change that requires seasons to unfold. For those of us who have imbibed an endless stream of gleaming white toothed corporate casual models leaping at the prospect of success from the pages of airline magazine, the slow grind of actual life seems like a broken promise. And yet, this is where our dreams actually unfold. This is where we do the work that transfers our vision into being.

The Taiwanese burn ghost money in a prayer of hope and wish for celestial intervention.

In the West, we too burn our ghost money to the gods from which we seek favor. They go by different names, and we don't incinerate piles of flower folded spirit currency. Yet, we too have our ways of trying to strike a deal with the Universe, of currying favor that might rain down from heaven the gifts we seek.

A curious habit that one is, the seeking of divine intervention. Because oddly enough it is our own deciding to intervene in our lives that tends to bring the most change. And it is not about some hopeful future or wish-it-were-different past, but from a deep and content sense of inhabiting the present.

 

Taiwanese Rules of Traffic

It's crowded in Taiwan. Crowded in a way that most Americans would not want to think too long about. Crowded and with rules of human brownian motion seeped from a culture that avoids conflict and direct confrontation.

So it can be confusing.

Confusing when we try to apply the Western habit of meeting and how to avoid colliding with others. In the West we consider crossing in front to be polite and appropriate, in Taiwan it's the opposite. Usually not noticed it at first except for a funny stutter step of the feet as you try to avoid bumping into others. It takes a soft shift in intention and focus to find the openings while navigating a crowd, or the tangle of vehicles and people at an intersection. And when you do make the shift and find the openings, they tend to appear behind people, not in front. It's a small shift, but one that makes all the difference.

To a Westerner the roads in Taiwan appear to be without rule or reason. That's not the case at all. It's a sensible flow, once you grasp the rules. There are three of them.

 

Rule one:

If there is a space, it may be filled. It's not personal. I can fill it, you can fill it, anyone can fill it. Unlike the bubble of personal space we have in West which is rigid and tends to range from one to four feet, here in Taiwan it's flexible and can compress to just past the surface of your clothes.

Rule two:

Whoever is in front has the right of way. That's simple, we have the same thing in the West.

Rule three:

Who's in front, is always and at every moment up for negotiation.

This does not mean it is chaotic, but rather that a different set of expectations are in effect. It involves more attention and a yielding water-like touch. Melt into the school of fish flow around you. And when looking for an opening, it's almost always in back of where you would otherwise think.

 

Breathing Taiwan

It's a complicated perfume of lurid tropical flowers and scooter exhaust, mixed with outdoor kitchens, acrid-sweet temple incense and wrapped all together into a humid embrace. The first thing I wanted to do after arriving in Tainan was to slip out into the night and breath the Taiwanese air from a street-side BBQ. There is something about the lighting here at night, it glows more yellow blue, it's softer on the eyes, like living in a gently sepia world. The gravity here is measurably different from that of the mainland.

It's an easy trip when your feet are headed in the direction of a place that feels like home. Even when the road bends into unfamiliarly there is still a beacon sense of the next steps to take. And so I arrive back to Tainan, where a conspiracy of diamond sparkle alleys wind into smoke patinaed temples, quiet coffee houses, riotous markets and the various commerce of connection and life.

An awful lot of life gets packed into what for a Westerner is an impossibly small space. Not a centimeter is wasted. Ducks awaiting roasting hang from rafters, breakfast is served street side, motorcycles litter the walkways like fallen Autumn leaves. Nothing you might want is far away. Be it a scooter repair, dispenser of filtered water, a cellphone sim card or something to eat. Most any need of daily life is within the radius of a 15 minute walk.

It is easy, very easy, to fall in the ambrosia pace of life in this ancient capital of Taiwan.

 

Chinese Medicine is Hard to Learn in China

In the rush and tumble obedience to laboratory science Chinese medicine in China has embraced the isolation of the petri dish, single molecular interactions and the reductionist lens of seeing the trees at the expense of the forest

Students in many of the Chinese medicine schools are taught that their medicine is not enough, that only when supplemented with pharmaceutical medication can be of service. They are taught Chinese medicine through the principles of Western science. They learn to prescribe herbs with an eye to laboratory interactions, and in doing so have lost the essence of traditional medicine and how to focus on the whole of a person.

In short, they are now taught to treat illnesses, but learn very little about treating people. Most now graduate with neither the skills or confidence to develop themselves into effective practitioners. They spout the ready slogan of 中西結合, the integration of Eastern and Western medicine, but sadly don’t truly embrace the former and are only partially skilled in the later. It makes it different in China to learn Chinese medicine, when the people who truly practice the art are increasingly fewer and far between

Dr. Huang, who organized this conference on classic herbal medicine, does not practice 中西結合. He does not follow the now popular route of “integration,” but instead seeks to cultivate the time tested methods that help a practitioner to cultivate their own clinical experience, so that they can more skillfully apply methods that are both safe and effective for the patient.

Here in the West we are just now beginning to talk about genetic differences and how that might play into crafting different kinds of treatments for different kinds of people. In China, they have been cultivating this perspective for well over 2000 years.

Of course, in the span of thousands of years there are some ideas and methods that fall by the wayside, they just don’t pan out. And there are others that over the centuries have proven their worth. That is what we gathered together to discuss and learn in Nanjing. How to be of service to our patients by taking the sparks of brilliance that have come down to us over the generations and have it kindle a fire in our own minds.

Jetlag

The synchronic adjustment between time zones is only one part of the shifting required when settling into a time zone that crosses oceans, languages and customs. Certainly, there is the internal clock of sleep and digestion that finds itself unhinged from the accustomed cycles of dark and light. But, additionally there are the habits of space and movement. How a street gets crossed. What distance is close enough, and the meaning implicate in the volume of one’s voice.

Jetlag involves more than the disruption of internal timekeeping. Toss in the smells and sounds, floral humidity or bone-dry pollution, traffic flows and assumptions about courtesy. It is more than time; there are elements in life of timing to which our internal sense of motion and flow must readjust. The different taste of seasons, how the wind feels, and the softness or acridity of the air all ask for a recalibration our internal compass to this new here and now.

It’s a short window into the differences between places. All too soon, that which is odd and off center will again spin as our new axis of normal.

Oh, so it is like this..

I bought a ticket from one of Taipei’s kabillion 7/11′s for the the high speed train that time slices the journey from Taipei to Tainan. For a 35 cent service charge the pre-ticket sales line at the train station can be avoided. Taiwanese 7/11′s truly live up the name “convenience store”, as there you can do anything from pay a parking ticket, to purchasing a one shot dose of the most commonly used Chinese herbal decoctions, to picking up a surprisingly fresh quick meal, to– buying a train ticket.

The clerk did not actually give me a ticket, but a handful of receipts, one of which had bar codes and time stamps. It was not till the next morning when I went to double check on the departure time that I noticed there wasn’t one. And the big letters at the top that said “not a ticket” lead me down the garden path of thinking that I’d be able to scan this bar coded receipt and grab my ticket at the station.

When listening to a foreign language where you don’t quite understand everything, the mind will attempt fill in the voids of unclarity with guesses gleaned from the context of the situation. This is not limited to the study of language. We all are constantly filling in the spaces of “don’t know” with “it must be like this.” The English word is “assumptions,” and they often land us hot water when the true reality of a situation revels itself.

I can read the characters at the train station 換票區. I thought it was referring to the electronic ticket receipt in my wallet. Wrong again! It is where you go to get a refund for a ticket you don’t want to use. I unfortunately do not have a ticket. I have a receipt for one. And this is a problem. I was supposed to have been given a ticket at the 7/11. I suspect the girl working there was too new to know that. And me? How would I know, it’s the first time for me too.

Being fresh from a week on the mainland I expected the worst. But, Taipei is not Beijing. I get an apology for the confusion, apology for that it is going to take some time to get this sorted out, and an apology that there are some details I will have to provide. It would appear this will be a recoverable mistake. And somehow that it unfolds in Chinese makes it easier to let go of the self-talk that usually accompanies the missteps of life in English. In our own language and staunch belief that we understand our world it is easy to acquire the habit of anger and frustration when the world reveals itself to be different from our cozy construct.

There is a phrase I hear lot here in Taiwan. It is a very Taiwanese way of speaking– 這樣子啊 zhe yang zi ah, “oh, so it is like this.” It is not a judgement, it assigns no blame. It is a simple recognition of the world as it is. Like a mini-enlightenment, “oh, so it is like this.”

It is not a bad habit to acquire– “oh, so it’s like this.” It leaves us open to recognizing the how our minds at times lead us down a dreamed up path, and when the lightning flash of reality illuminates our error we can let ourselves off the hook. Allow it to simply be. Be as it is. Zhe yang zi ah. And then keep moving forward with just a touch more clarity and calm.

Ten years ago


Ten years ago this would not have been possible. Ten years ago the world was a different place. Ten years ago you could not fly directly from Shanghai to Taiwan. In fact, you could not fly anywhere from mainland China directly to Taiwan. Ten years ago you needed to track through Hong Kong if your final destination was the international airport in Taoyuan that sits about an hour outside of Taipei. Ten years ago it was impossible to do what I am doing today.

But, then ten years ago it was also not possible for me to read Chinese, or negotiate an overcharge at a restaurant, or figure out how to slide through a traffic intersection of apparent chaos. Ten years ago Americans did not walk barefoot through airport scanners, or bank from a cell phone.

Rarely do most of us see the changes coming that in retrospect were obvious choices, or make complete sense from the perspective of today. It’s not to say that planning and thoughtful consideration are not of value, but that perhaps at times the habit of the moment prevents us from seeing that new possibilities are unfolding right in front of us.

What about you? What do you do now that was unthinkable ten years ago? What previously curious changes make complete sense from the perspective of today?
Leave a comment and share something of the mystery that unexpected transformation has brought to your life.

Learning language

I always enjoy the language lessons from cabbies. Quite often they are the lessons learnt from the stumbles of my less than “standard” mandarin. Other times from the miscommunication of thinking that one thing means another. Like when I first was learning my way about Beijing in 2002 using my Taiwanese flavored Chinese. I thought I was just making conversation among guys by talking about pretty girls. He thought I wanted a prostitute. Xiao jie, an affectionate term for women in general in Taiwan, translates differently on the continent. Those lessons wrought from confusion have a way of sticking with you.
Emotion, tends to burn experiences deeply into our being.

Today’s lesson was more gentle. Mr Liu has an agreement with the hotel. He takes guests out there off the meter for 100 RMB, it then sets him up with a nice fat metered fare back to the city. As usual I’m complimented on my rotten Mandarin and told “you speak a more proper Mandarin than I do.” In a way he is right, I have not acquired the buzz-saw “errrr” of Beijing’s unique accent. He graciously gives me a lesson in the application of the buzz-saw.

“You can’t add it to all words, and for certain words it will actually change the meaning.” For example, men (gateway) in the name of one of the intersections on the second ring road, An Ding Men, which used to be a major gateway into what was the wall that ringed Beijing before the second ring road. That men is pronounced “men”– no “errr.” But, the men that is the door of a house– that one you say “merrr.” Calling a big gate a merrr, it just disrespects.

As ever the intricacies of language at times make we wonder how we communicate at all. For now, I’ll stick with my Taiwanese southern “errr”-less drawl and leave the Beijing language to the gemerr (brothers) of the northern capitol.

Tea

Tea is not a quick affair. It takes time. Time to settle into a chair and visit the steaming water and leaves. It is a rare moment in our point-and-click UPS delivered life, to drop the to-do list and sink into a wandering conversation. The kind without an agenda, the kind that is like an ongoing invitation.

Us westerners often mistake the technology of tea making for a ceremony. And while it is just that in some parts of the world, in the middle kingdom it is a simple and practical way to extract the personality locked away in the leaves.

It takes time to drink tea. To entice the leaves to open and share their stories of early morning moonlit dew, insect songs, subterranean minerals scattered in the dirt and fecund decay, and long sun-baked afternoons. It takes time to compare this cup, with that one and how the fragrance of one tea rises into the nose, while another sinks down to the chest. It takes time, like getting to know a new friend, or your own true heart’s desire. It is not so much a process of judging, but one of comparison, and curiosity.

The process can’t be rushed, and like meditation it is an invitation to simply be present. Allow the moment to unfold, like the leaves surrendering to hot water. Like we do to our own experience when it is not rushed. When we allow to be, as is, in this moment.
And the next one too.

The Imperial Capitol

The anomaly of the cotton wet grey sky does not match the desiccated grit that dusts everything with its dull chalk patina. The lack of sun has nothing to do with saturated clouds of moisture, but from the hydrocarbon exhalation of a country that “makes things.” We in the west pride ourselves of having cleaned up the environment in our country, but the truth of matter is that the two faced genie of manufacture has simply been moved not just to another part town, but beyond our borders as well. Just as it did for us, manufacturing creates wealth and it would appear it continues to do so in its age old way– by chewing through the environment. China Inc’s factories spew out the same sky consuming waste that in the past used to turn London coal black, and made the steel belt rivers of America run technicolor.

In the US we see shuttered building projects and declining infrastructure, as most of America has put itself on hold when it comes to expansion. It is different here, where the breakneck pace of economic development, change and growth feels every bit as foreign as the differences that naturally come from a mismatch of cultural quirks. China changes fast, and its imperial capitol reflects it with an ever increasing spider web of modern subways, stretched Hummer’s (the brand is now owned by the Chinese) and a crazy quilt of foreign tongues as everyone from the rural peasant to the Western business man, to the African merchant all seek to bite off a bit of China’s economic land grab.

Prices are inflating in a dizzying spiral and it brings with it changes in outlook and attitude. Where there used to be hard bargaining, now is often heard “take it or leave it.” Flagging down a cab and getting them to stop still may or may not get you to your destination. I’ve heard the odd hours excuse of “I’m getting off work now”– that actually translates into I don’t want to go to that part of town. And while there still are men who light up their cigarettes under the “no smoking” signs in restaurants, they don’t seem to quite a plentiful as before. It just might be that there is a tidal shift in tobacco use.

To what are now my American mid-west tuned sensibilities, Beijing feels like an assault. But, I know that is the temporary byproduct of retuning my Chinese 360° sense of perception and the weary edge of jetlag. The “rules” of traffic as we know them are taken here simply as recommendations. And in reality have very little to do with how feet and wheels, motors and pedals, flow and restriction all play together to move people and vehicles through a seemingly impossibly narrow space. It will take a few more days to settle in the slow motion school of fish flow that governs how traffic moves in a world where the luxury of space is unknown.

In the section of town I temporarily call home there is graffiti everywhere. I can not remember seeing it on previous visits. But, it is also brighter at night with a new flush of shops and night markets that run on the fatter wallets of Beijing’s well lubed economy. The narrow hutongs with their low wattage corners of commerce, the fruit stands and daily goods shops have given way to guitar bars, trendy Thai restaurants, laid-back coffeehouses, hand crafted goods and stylishly cut clothes. The echos of “old Beijing”– the cigarette smoking old men surrounded with a mountain of spent sunflower seed hulls and an army of 3 kuai bottles of Yanjing beer as they play Chinese chess look like ghosts from another time, as the culture of commerce and “ke ai” (cuteness) overtake their old dusty alley with cupcakes, Tibetan scarves and tattoo parlors.

In the west our construction projects are well ordered affairs with OSHA enforced safety measures that wrap construction sites up like a helicopter parent’s prodigy learning to ride a bicycle. In Beijing they more resemble children who track mud all over the place, as the boundaries of creation and destruction merge one into the other, and the ever flowing stream of bicycles, cars and feet simply parts and flows water-like around any momentarily obstruction. Massive diesel spewing dump trucks offloading dirt from an excavation site share the sidewalk with the lively crowd out to enjoy one of the last few comfortable nights before winter drags the bitter cold winds down off the Mongolian Steppes.

It is very difficult to separate creation from destruction. Perhaps this is what it looks like when a dragon sheds its skin.

Category Archives: Culture

Presence and Persistence

It does not come easy for most Americans. It does not come easy for those of us raised on a diet of “right now,” of hopes and promises of overnight riches, of guaranteed transformation in 10 days.

With eyes focused on the instant, it feels like a water torture of failure to endure the process of change that requires seasons to unfold. For those of us who have imbibed an endless stream of gleaming white toothed corporate casual models leaping at the prospect of success from the pages of airline magazine, the slow grind of actual life seems like a broken promise. And yet, this is where our dreams actually unfold. This is where we do the work that transfers our vision into being.

The Taiwanese burn ghost money in a prayer of hope and wish for celestial intervention.

In the West, we too burn our ghost money to the gods from which we seek favor. They go by different names, and we don't incinerate piles of flower folded spirit currency. Yet, we too have our ways of trying to strike a deal with the Universe, of currying favor that might rain down from heaven the gifts we seek.

A curious habit that one is, the seeking of divine intervention. Because oddly enough it is our own deciding to intervene in our lives that tends to bring the most change. And it is not about some hopeful future or wish-it-were-different past, but from a deep and content sense of inhabiting the present.

 

Taiwanese Rules of Traffic

It's crowded in Taiwan. Crowded in a way that most Americans would not want to think too long about. Crowded and with rules of human brownian motion seeped from a culture that avoids conflict and direct confrontation.

So it can be confusing.

Confusing when we try to apply the Western habit of meeting and how to avoid colliding with others. In the West we consider crossing in front to be polite and appropriate, in Taiwan it's the opposite. Usually not noticed it at first except for a funny stutter step of the feet as you try to avoid bumping into others. It takes a soft shift in intention and focus to find the openings while navigating a crowd, or the tangle of vehicles and people at an intersection. And when you do make the shift and find the openings, they tend to appear behind people, not in front. It's a small shift, but one that makes all the difference.

To a Westerner the roads in Taiwan appear to be without rule or reason. That's not the case at all. It's a sensible flow, once you grasp the rules. There are three of them.

 

Rule one:

If there is a space, it may be filled. It's not personal. I can fill it, you can fill it, anyone can fill it. Unlike the bubble of personal space we have in West which is rigid and tends to range from one to four feet, here in Taiwan it's flexible and can compress to just past the surface of your clothes.

Rule two:

Whoever is in front has the right of way. That's simple, we have the same thing in the West.

Rule three:

Who's in front, is always and at every moment up for negotiation.

This does not mean it is chaotic, but rather that a different set of expectations are in effect. It involves more attention and a yielding water-like touch. Melt into the school of fish flow around you. And when looking for an opening, it's almost always in back of where you would otherwise think.

 

Breathing Taiwan

It's a complicated perfume of lurid tropical flowers and scooter exhaust, mixed with outdoor kitchens, acrid-sweet temple incense and wrapped all together into a humid embrace. The first thing I wanted to do after arriving in Tainan was to slip out into the night and breath the Taiwanese air from a street-side BBQ. There is something about the lighting here at night, it glows more yellow blue, it's softer on the eyes, like living in a gently sepia world. The gravity here is measurably different from that of the mainland.

It's an easy trip when your feet are headed in the direction of a place that feels like home. Even when the road bends into unfamiliarly there is still a beacon sense of the next steps to take. And so I arrive back to Tainan, where a conspiracy of diamond sparkle alleys wind into smoke patinaed temples, quiet coffee houses, riotous markets and the various commerce of connection and life.

An awful lot of life gets packed into what for a Westerner is an impossibly small space. Not a centimeter is wasted. Ducks awaiting roasting hang from rafters, breakfast is served street side, motorcycles litter the walkways like fallen Autumn leaves. Nothing you might want is far away. Be it a scooter repair, dispenser of filtered water, a cellphone sim card or something to eat. Most any need of daily life is within the radius of a 15 minute walk.

It is easy, very easy, to fall in the ambrosia pace of life in this ancient capital of Taiwan.

 

Chinese Medicine is Hard to Learn in China

In the rush and tumble obedience to laboratory science Chinese medicine in China has embraced the isolation of the petri dish, single molecular interactions and the reductionist lens of seeing the trees at the expense of the forest

Students in many of the Chinese medicine schools are taught that their medicine is not enough, that only when supplemented with pharmaceutical medication can be of service. They are taught Chinese medicine through the principles of Western science. They learn to prescribe herbs with an eye to laboratory interactions, and in doing so have lost the essence of traditional medicine and how to focus on the whole of a person.

In short, they are now taught to treat illnesses, but learn very little about treating people. Most now graduate with neither the skills or confidence to develop themselves into effective practitioners. They spout the ready slogan of 中西結合, the integration of Eastern and Western medicine, but sadly don’t truly embrace the former and are only partially skilled in the later. It makes it different in China to learn Chinese medicine, when the people who truly practice the art are increasingly fewer and far between

Dr. Huang, who organized this conference on classic herbal medicine, does not practice 中西結合. He does not follow the now popular route of “integration,” but instead seeks to cultivate the time tested methods that help a practitioner to cultivate their own clinical experience, so that they can more skillfully apply methods that are both safe and effective for the patient.

Here in the West we are just now beginning to talk about genetic differences and how that might play into crafting different kinds of treatments for different kinds of people. In China, they have been cultivating this perspective for well over 2000 years.

Of course, in the span of thousands of years there are some ideas and methods that fall by the wayside, they just don’t pan out. And there are others that over the centuries have proven their worth. That is what we gathered together to discuss and learn in Nanjing. How to be of service to our patients by taking the sparks of brilliance that have come down to us over the generations and have it kindle a fire in our own minds.

Jetlag

The synchronic adjustment between time zones is only one part of the shifting required when settling into a time zone that crosses oceans, languages and customs. Certainly, there is the internal clock of sleep and digestion that finds itself unhinged from the accustomed cycles of dark and light. But, additionally there are the habits of space and movement. How a street gets crossed. What distance is close enough, and the meaning implicate in the volume of one’s voice.

Jetlag involves more than the disruption of internal timekeeping. Toss in the smells and sounds, floral humidity or bone-dry pollution, traffic flows and assumptions about courtesy. It is more than time; there are elements in life of timing to which our internal sense of motion and flow must readjust. The different taste of seasons, how the wind feels, and the softness or acridity of the air all ask for a recalibration our internal compass to this new here and now.

It’s a short window into the differences between places. All too soon, that which is odd and off center will again spin as our new axis of normal.

Oh, so it is like this..

I bought a ticket from one of Taipei’s kabillion 7/11′s for the the high speed train that time slices the journey from Taipei to Tainan. For a 35 cent service charge the pre-ticket sales line at the train station can be avoided. Taiwanese 7/11′s truly live up the name “convenience store”, as there you can do anything from pay a parking ticket, to purchasing a one shot dose of the most commonly used Chinese herbal decoctions, to picking up a surprisingly fresh quick meal, to– buying a train ticket.

The clerk did not actually give me a ticket, but a handful of receipts, one of which had bar codes and time stamps. It was not till the next morning when I went to double check on the departure time that I noticed there wasn’t one. And the big letters at the top that said “not a ticket” lead me down the garden path of thinking that I’d be able to scan this bar coded receipt and grab my ticket at the station.

When listening to a foreign language where you don’t quite understand everything, the mind will attempt fill in the voids of unclarity with guesses gleaned from the context of the situation. This is not limited to the study of language. We all are constantly filling in the spaces of “don’t know” with “it must be like this.” The English word is “assumptions,” and they often land us hot water when the true reality of a situation revels itself.

I can read the characters at the train station 換票區. I thought it was referring to the electronic ticket receipt in my wallet. Wrong again! It is where you go to get a refund for a ticket you don’t want to use. I unfortunately do not have a ticket. I have a receipt for one. And this is a problem. I was supposed to have been given a ticket at the 7/11. I suspect the girl working there was too new to know that. And me? How would I know, it’s the first time for me too.

Being fresh from a week on the mainland I expected the worst. But, Taipei is not Beijing. I get an apology for the confusion, apology for that it is going to take some time to get this sorted out, and an apology that there are some details I will have to provide. It would appear this will be a recoverable mistake. And somehow that it unfolds in Chinese makes it easier to let go of the self-talk that usually accompanies the missteps of life in English. In our own language and staunch belief that we understand our world it is easy to acquire the habit of anger and frustration when the world reveals itself to be different from our cozy construct.

There is a phrase I hear lot here in Taiwan. It is a very Taiwanese way of speaking– 這樣子啊 zhe yang zi ah, “oh, so it is like this.” It is not a judgement, it assigns no blame. It is a simple recognition of the world as it is. Like a mini-enlightenment, “oh, so it is like this.”

It is not a bad habit to acquire– “oh, so it’s like this.” It leaves us open to recognizing the how our minds at times lead us down a dreamed up path, and when the lightning flash of reality illuminates our error we can let ourselves off the hook. Allow it to simply be. Be as it is. Zhe yang zi ah. And then keep moving forward with just a touch more clarity and calm.

Ten years ago


Ten years ago this would not have been possible. Ten years ago the world was a different place. Ten years ago you could not fly directly from Shanghai to Taiwan. In fact, you could not fly anywhere from mainland China directly to Taiwan. Ten years ago you needed to track through Hong Kong if your final destination was the international airport in Taoyuan that sits about an hour outside of Taipei. Ten years ago it was impossible to do what I am doing today.

But, then ten years ago it was also not possible for me to read Chinese, or negotiate an overcharge at a restaurant, or figure out how to slide through a traffic intersection of apparent chaos. Ten years ago Americans did not walk barefoot through airport scanners, or bank from a cell phone.

Rarely do most of us see the changes coming that in retrospect were obvious choices, or make complete sense from the perspective of today. It’s not to say that planning and thoughtful consideration are not of value, but that perhaps at times the habit of the moment prevents us from seeing that new possibilities are unfolding right in front of us.

What about you? What do you do now that was unthinkable ten years ago? What previously curious changes make complete sense from the perspective of today?
Leave a comment and share something of the mystery that unexpected transformation has brought to your life.

Learning language

I always enjoy the language lessons from cabbies. Quite often they are the lessons learnt from the stumbles of my less than “standard” mandarin. Other times from the miscommunication of thinking that one thing means another. Like when I first was learning my way about Beijing in 2002 using my Taiwanese flavored Chinese. I thought I was just making conversation among guys by talking about pretty girls. He thought I wanted a prostitute. Xiao jie, an affectionate term for women in general in Taiwan, translates differently on the continent. Those lessons wrought from confusion have a way of sticking with you.
Emotion, tends to burn experiences deeply into our being.

Today’s lesson was more gentle. Mr Liu has an agreement with the hotel. He takes guests out there off the meter for 100 RMB, it then sets him up with a nice fat metered fare back to the city. As usual I’m complimented on my rotten Mandarin and told “you speak a more proper Mandarin than I do.” In a way he is right, I have not acquired the buzz-saw “errrr” of Beijing’s unique accent. He graciously gives me a lesson in the application of the buzz-saw.

“You can’t add it to all words, and for certain words it will actually change the meaning.” For example, men (gateway) in the name of one of the intersections on the second ring road, An Ding Men, which used to be a major gateway into what was the wall that ringed Beijing before the second ring road. That men is pronounced “men”– no “errr.” But, the men that is the door of a house– that one you say “merrr.” Calling a big gate a merrr, it just disrespects.

As ever the intricacies of language at times make we wonder how we communicate at all. For now, I’ll stick with my Taiwanese southern “errr”-less drawl and leave the Beijing language to the gemerr (brothers) of the northern capitol.

Tea

Tea is not a quick affair. It takes time. Time to settle into a chair and visit the steaming water and leaves. It is a rare moment in our point-and-click UPS delivered life, to drop the to-do list and sink into a wandering conversation. The kind without an agenda, the kind that is like an ongoing invitation.

Us westerners often mistake the technology of tea making for a ceremony. And while it is just that in some parts of the world, in the middle kingdom it is a simple and practical way to extract the personality locked away in the leaves.

It takes time to drink tea. To entice the leaves to open and share their stories of early morning moonlit dew, insect songs, subterranean minerals scattered in the dirt and fecund decay, and long sun-baked afternoons. It takes time to compare this cup, with that one and how the fragrance of one tea rises into the nose, while another sinks down to the chest. It takes time, like getting to know a new friend, or your own true heart’s desire. It is not so much a process of judging, but one of comparison, and curiosity.

The process can’t be rushed, and like meditation it is an invitation to simply be present. Allow the moment to unfold, like the leaves surrendering to hot water. Like we do to our own experience when it is not rushed. When we allow to be, as is, in this moment.
And the next one too.

The Imperial Capitol

The anomaly of the cotton wet grey sky does not match the desiccated grit that dusts everything with its dull chalk patina. The lack of sun has nothing to do with saturated clouds of moisture, but from the hydrocarbon exhalation of a country that “makes things.” We in the west pride ourselves of having cleaned up the environment in our country, but the truth of matter is that the two faced genie of manufacture has simply been moved not just to another part town, but beyond our borders as well. Just as it did for us, manufacturing creates wealth and it would appear it continues to do so in its age old way– by chewing through the environment. China Inc’s factories spew out the same sky consuming waste that in the past used to turn London coal black, and made the steel belt rivers of America run technicolor.

In the US we see shuttered building projects and declining infrastructure, as most of America has put itself on hold when it comes to expansion. It is different here, where the breakneck pace of economic development, change and growth feels every bit as foreign as the differences that naturally come from a mismatch of cultural quirks. China changes fast, and its imperial capitol reflects it with an ever increasing spider web of modern subways, stretched Hummer’s (the brand is now owned by the Chinese) and a crazy quilt of foreign tongues as everyone from the rural peasant to the Western business man, to the African merchant all seek to bite off a bit of China’s economic land grab.

Prices are inflating in a dizzying spiral and it brings with it changes in outlook and attitude. Where there used to be hard bargaining, now is often heard “take it or leave it.” Flagging down a cab and getting them to stop still may or may not get you to your destination. I’ve heard the odd hours excuse of “I’m getting off work now”– that actually translates into I don’t want to go to that part of town. And while there still are men who light up their cigarettes under the “no smoking” signs in restaurants, they don’t seem to quite a plentiful as before. It just might be that there is a tidal shift in tobacco use.

To what are now my American mid-west tuned sensibilities, Beijing feels like an assault. But, I know that is the temporary byproduct of retuning my Chinese 360° sense of perception and the weary edge of jetlag. The “rules” of traffic as we know them are taken here simply as recommendations. And in reality have very little to do with how feet and wheels, motors and pedals, flow and restriction all play together to move people and vehicles through a seemingly impossibly narrow space. It will take a few more days to settle in the slow motion school of fish flow that governs how traffic moves in a world where the luxury of space is unknown.

In the section of town I temporarily call home there is graffiti everywhere. I can not remember seeing it on previous visits. But, it is also brighter at night with a new flush of shops and night markets that run on the fatter wallets of Beijing’s well lubed economy. The narrow hutongs with their low wattage corners of commerce, the fruit stands and daily goods shops have given way to guitar bars, trendy Thai restaurants, laid-back coffeehouses, hand crafted goods and stylishly cut clothes. The echos of “old Beijing”– the cigarette smoking old men surrounded with a mountain of spent sunflower seed hulls and an army of 3 kuai bottles of Yanjing beer as they play Chinese chess look like ghosts from another time, as the culture of commerce and “ke ai” (cuteness) overtake their old dusty alley with cupcakes, Tibetan scarves and tattoo parlors.

In the west our construction projects are well ordered affairs with OSHA enforced safety measures that wrap construction sites up like a helicopter parent’s prodigy learning to ride a bicycle. In Beijing they more resemble children who track mud all over the place, as the boundaries of creation and destruction merge one into the other, and the ever flowing stream of bicycles, cars and feet simply parts and flows water-like around any momentarily obstruction. Massive diesel spewing dump trucks offloading dirt from an excavation site share the sidewalk with the lively crowd out to enjoy one of the last few comfortable nights before winter drags the bitter cold winds down off the Mongolian Steppes.

It is very difficult to separate creation from destruction. Perhaps this is what it looks like when a dragon sheds its skin.